Hai Ban Pass

Hai Ban Pass

Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Everyone Should Go To Ireland On Their Birthday



It’s a good birthday when you wake up in the morning in Chicago and put your head to bed at the end of the day in Ireland.  

I’m not a nervous traveler, but I realized several weeks ago that this would be the first time I had flown alone in almost 20 years, and, while I know I am capable of finding where I’m headed on my own, Chris usually navigates busses and trains and routes and paths for the both of us. Kristen and I talked about the new Stephen King television romp Under the Dome on the way to the airport and her thought that Archie should maybe read it as his introduction to King instead of just watching it. Succumbing as I do to the power of suggestion, I downloaded it before the flight and began it once I boarded the plane. And I boarded the plane quickly because people who had only personal items and no carry ons were encouraged to board second only to first class which is appropriate and fair since they have the word “first” right in their title.  And, while of course I missed him, this was when I realized some parts of the journey are easier on my own than with my beloved husband—who is always carrying 132 things with him, some of which has always already spilled here and there. In any case, I boarded easily, settled in and, by the time I got through the first several chapters in which there is a terrific and terrible plane crash, I was already up in the air and on my way. Six and a half hours plus a six hour time change later and I was in Ireland.

The next leg was a bus ride from Dublin to Limerick and, ever the gentleman and decent husband, Chris sent ahead information about where and when to get the bus. Throughout some of our past travels finding the bus has been a bit of an adventure in and of itself… is the “bus” that station wagon? Is it that minivan? Is it that chicken bus? A lot of people are sitting in the back of that pickup truck; is it that? Everything is easier in a first world country where there are signs and designated bus stops and benches. That said, Chris told me to look for a red bus and the bus that arrived for me was white; I got on anyway and it took me where I wanted to go. You cut across the country from east to west going from Dublin to Limerick and it is ancient and green and beautiful. 

A gentler attitude than I am used to was apparent even on the bus; a young man got on, paid his way to some destination, and a mile or two down the road told the driver he had changed his mind. He explained that he had been too impulsive when he decided to make his trip that day. The driver let him off and told him to use the ticket another better day.

Chris was waiting for me at the University of Limerick bus stop, and I’m glad. The most confusing part of the journey was navigating campus.  The university is sprawling and the Shannon River runs through it. Chris tells me that the river also divides the counties so while we are staying in Limerick, his classes are across the Living Bridge in Clare. The architecture here is stunning—modern, but with a clear mission to blend into and complement its natural setting. Chris has been too busy with classes to take pictures here on campus, but tomorrow I’ll bring the camera with me while I walk the grounds and see if I can’t capture a little of what makes it charming. I can’t imagine how stimulating and soothing it would be to have this as the backdrop to my education, so special.  It’s a bit old fashioned here though; when Chris paid for my accommodations on campus he thought he was just arranging for me to join him in his room. When he picked up the extra key, he realized that it was a key to a separate room entirely.  Blas is keeping my virtue intact, at least on paper--the guy told Chris he didn’t care where anybody slept but we were paying for two rooms.

After traveling all afternoon and all night and all day again, I was exhausted and napped while Chris was in class but woke in time for dinner in the pub—a heaping mound of curried chicken—and then one of the sessions Chris has been telling me about. Last night there was a subtle transition from people sitting around having a pint to playing music. First, a young man and woman got out their instruments and started playing and then another woman joined them, then another. Over the course of the next few hours, people moved in and out of the circle and the circle grew and at one point there were two Irish flutes, an Irish banjo (which has only four strings and not quite the same twangy echo as an American one), a concertina, two mandolins, a drum, a guitar, a host of fiddles and several vocalists. Songs are played in cycles of three and transitions between them are fast, as are the melodies. It’s dizzying and hypnotic at the same time and I look forward to this evening when I’m less sleepy and can hold on longer, since Chris told me on our way out last night—even after hours of being there—that it was just getting started. There is also the music of language. The people in Chris’s program are here from the world over: Ireland, Sweden, Finland, Denmark, France, Israel, Holland, Scotland. There are those languages and English, too, and Irish. Chris tells me that the Irish call their own language Irish and aren’t quite sure why others call it Gaelic.

It was a grand introduction to Ireland and a nice way to spend my birthday, which somehow—what with travel and time change—ended up stretching from one day to two, something I would recommend to anyone who enjoys a good celebration.

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